The Part Time Beauty Guide to Tokyo - Part One

The streets of Shinjuku as seen from the Park Hyatt Tokyo

At the time of writing, it has been just over six months since I got back from Tokyo. Six months! Where that time has gone I’m not exactly sure, and I’m deeply embarrassed about not having posted in March, April or June at all (pathetic excuse for a blogger that I am), but hopefully this guide to one of the world’s most exciting cities will go some way towards making up for it. After all, although I was only there for about a week, Tokyo has left a lasting impression on me, as it seems to do to so many of its visitors, and I keep having to remind myself that my time there wasn’t just an especially vivid dream. The long flight, the Park Hyatt, the phosphorescent glow of Shinjuku by night — it was all real, and I was fortunate enough to experience it all first hand. I’d go back in a heartbeat but, seeing as I don’t have the resources right now, I am instead on a mission to encourage as many others to visit as possible, and I hope this little guide helps.

On the off-chance that you weren’t already aware, Tokyo is the capital city of Japan, situated on the southeastern side of the main island of Honshu. Although Tokyo is home to almost 14 million people, its large geographic size means that it seldom seems overcrowded or claustrophobic like, say, London. (No offence London, you’re just too easy to bash in this regard.) That said, it is still very big and very busy, with a labyrinthine street plan designed hundreds of years ago for the purpose of confusing invading enemies, so keep those navigation apps handy!

Tokyo is, by and large, a very safe city. Of all the places I’ve visited solo, including Berlin, Paris, Los Angeles and San Francisco, I’ve probably never felt more at ease than I did in Tokyo. It is still worth keeping your wits about you however as, like any other major city, there will inevitably be pockets of untoward activity here and there, though I personally didn’t encounter any first hand. So…now that you’ve got a snapshot of the place, let’s get to it, shall we?

The backstreets of Harajuku just before dusk

GETTING THERE
Tokyo is served by two major airports: Haneda International Airport, which is about 10 miles away from Tokyo proper, and Narita International Airport, which is 37 miles away. As such, it is more convenient to fly into Haneda if you can, mostly because your transfer fares will be much lower, but do bear in mind that Narita still handles the majority of international flights. I flew into and out of Haneda with British Airways and found it to be a wonderfully seamless experience, even in spite of some travel sickness. The flight time from London to Tokyo is approximately 11 hours, so dress comfortably, do a sheet mask or two, and try to read as much Murakami as you can before you land.

GETTING AROUND
When it comes to getting around Tokyo, one option stands head and shoulders above the rest: the Tokyo subway. The network is extensive, economical, clean, and so startlingly efficient that you’ll find yourself pining for it long after you’ve returned home. Navigating it all might seem impossible at first but, worry not, this is where the free Tokyo Subway App comes in very handy. I downloaded this within hours of arriving and it made getting around an absolute breeze. Furthermore, many of the signs are now in English as well as Japanese, and there are English-speaking staff available at many stations who are always happy to help.

Taxis in Tokyo are a lavish affair — think gloved drivers, antimacassars on the headrests, and so on — but they are also lavishly priced, so unless you’re travelling in a group or need to meet an awkwardly-timed flight, I would advise against them. There are affordable and frequent limousine bus services that run from both airports to select hotels in central Tokyo, so be sure to check if yours is listed. I used one on the way in and found it to be brilliant value for money, speedy, and unbelievably efficient.

My room at the Park Hyatt Tokyo

WHERE TO STAY
This is where it gets interesting: for the longest time, the hotel market in Tokyo seemed to be dominated by high-end properties from the likes of Hilton and Hyatt, but in recent years the choice of accommodation has diversified greatly, with boutique and design-led properties popping up across the city to cater to image-conscious travellers. The undoubted highlight of this recent boom is Harajuku’s Trunk Hotel, a contemporary and minimal gem situated at the heart of one of Tokyo’s buzziest neighbourhoods, which just so happens to be a favourite of make-up artist Jillian Dempsey — perhaps best known for her work with Kristen Stewart and Jennifer Lawrence.

If money is of no object to you, Tokyo has a lot to offer. The Aman Tokyo is much more than just an influencer favourite, with jaw-dropping views and some of the most spacious rooms in the city; the Andaz Tokyo Toranomon Hills is equal parts contemporary and luxurious, sitting pretty in a newly revitalised part of town; the Four Seasons, Mandarin Oriental and Shangri-La offerings are all as opulent as you might expect, though The Peninsula arguably has the most spectacular lobby of all. Take your pick!

For me, there was only ever going to be one option for my first visit to Tokyo: the Park Hyatt. Immortalised in Sofia Coppola’s 2003 film Lost in Translation (and mostly unchanged since then, I might add), the Park Hyatt Tokyo is pure luxury and escape, occupying the uppermost floors of Kenzo Tange’s Shinjuku Park Tower in, you guessed it, Shinjuku. I plan on writing a detailed post about this hotel in the not-too-distant future but, for now, just know that it is a truly unique place.

Finally, if you’re travelling on a budget, Tokyo has some solid options in the way of pod hotels and hostels. Book and Bed in Ikebukuro is hard to find but very highly rated, while The Millennials Shibuya propels the pod hotel concept to new heights with techy “smart pods” and specially commissioned art. All in all, there’s no shortage of places to rest your head in this magical metropolis.

An expertly made Old Fashioned at the Park Hyatt Tokyo’s New York Bar

Stay tuned for The Part Time Beauty Guide to Tokyo - Part Two, which will discuss what to see and where to eat and drink in Tokyo.

This piece was originally published on Part Time Beauty in 2019.