Paris - RTW SS13 - Ann Demeulemeester

City: Paris
Season: Ready-To-Wear, Spring/Summer 2013
Show: Ann Demeulemeester

Unlike, say, Marc Jacobs, Ann Demeulemeester is not the kind of designer to reinvent the wheel each season and make whatever they did last season seem instantly irrelevant. Instead Demeulemeester - one of the fabled Antwerp Six - sticks to her strong signature aesthetic: minimal yet somewhat ethereal, with a tendency towards asymmetry. True to form, Ann Demeulemeester’s Spring/Summer 2013 collection was decidedly un-springy, particularly when compared to some of the bigger houses, but for real Demeulemeester devotees like myself the diaphanous, druid-like looks were a breath of fresh - and deadly - air. The hemlines were a play on long and short, as seen on Andie Arthur (bottom right), while Demeulemeester’s signature tailoring was given an eye-catching metallic update - observe Erjona Ala (top centre). Towards the end of the show things took a devilish yet somewhat artisanal turn, with the likes of Kinga Rajzak (centre left) sporting handicraft leather harnesses. Dark and beguiling.

This piece was originally published on alisonlaurabell.tumblr.com in October 2012.